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>>>Many masters used slow-drying, glossy paint. They managed to dry it dust-free without filtration units and sanding the surface (that's sure to harm the surface effects, and forget about delicate passages).
Here's how they did it: you will need to have an easel that is constructed with an independent cradle which can be tilted slightly forward. The painting is tilted forward a few dgrees and a tight, dust-free cloth is hung in front of the painting. Heavy oilcloth, Naugahyde or similar will keep the dust from settling in on the surface.
As far as loose hairs go, that's a sign of poorly maintained brushes. Brushes that shed do not improve. Have a brush fire and start again, avoiding solvents stronger than turpentine or mineral spirits. Citrus cleaners are hell on brushes. The recommended method (recommended by brush makers, that is) is to first wipe off the excess paint, rinse it in mineral spirits and use a highly-fatted soap and TEPID water to wash the brush. Stroke it against the palm, rinse, wash again and rinse. Wipe dry and pull the bristles gently, forming them and reshaping them. Allow the brush to dry naturally, without resting against anything. James Morton swears by soaking his brushes in cooking oil. I have strong issues with introducing minute amounts of non-drying oil into the paint as well as allowing oil to settle in the ferrules. All cooking oils grow rancid and rancid oils will rot bristles.
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